car buying correct checks

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bex
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car buying correct checks

#1

Post by bex »

Advice when looking to buy cars.. what checks to do!
I Know club members are more honest than the general seller and you get a indepth look at the cars history if they have done a diary which is great.

But this is just a genral question as I have made a costly mistake in buying a car without proper checks and it will probably be useful to others looking to buy cars too. And maybe also helpful to people selling cars as they can point out this works fine on their car or this has been replaced repaired correctly.. etc etc.

Do actuallyI know most the checks I should have done but I chose not to so thought it would be good to have a reminder on site as if I can forget to do checks and get sidetracked by a seller who talks the talk very well -when I work with cars on a daily basis so can others...


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Re: car buying correct checks

#2

Post by TW02 »

It's easy to be blinded by a shiny car. The best thing to check is the paperwork. Servicing, cambelt changes, oil changes. Of course all this can be faked, but at least it's something to look at too, not just the car.
If I was looking for another Coupe having now owned one I would check service history, check the age of the clutch, check if all recalls we're seen to, check the handbrake, brakes, check that the condition of the drivers seat is consistent with the alleged mileage.
I'm not great at this, so I hope the members with lots more knowledge will help offer suggestions too!
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Re: car buying correct checks

#3

Post by audioque »

Well here's my two cents:

Check the oil level - if its over the max then they've probably filled it up in a hurry before you arrive. If the oil comes out on the stick contaminated and frothy run for the hills.

Check for rust - wheel arches especially the rear ones, the door sills and rear sub frame is all known to corrode.

As darren said check the handbrake, if it holds the car with only a few clicks then you've got good rear brakes (minor miracle to say the least)

Brakes - pedal shouldn't feel spongy or loose. Rotors should be free from excessive wear and shouldn't make noise after the first couple of times you slow down as all build up should be cleared by then.

Tyres - should all be the same make if possible, if they're all different and low on tread then they're definitely used and potentially dangerous (dodgy sellers do this)

Engine - listen to the engine on cold start - that'll give you an indication of any problems inside the engine. Listen to the underside of the car for knocking (V bad)

check all the lights work ie hazards fogs front and rear, headlights + main beam all function properly. Check the mileage on the odometer. If it says 80 thousand miles the gear knob should be worn and the bolster should be worn on the drivers side. If it says like 20-40 thousand miles and the gear knob is worn considerably and the seat looks like its about to fall apart chances are the mileage is wrong. Check under the bonnet for the ancillary belts, if they say Superstar etc Dongil brand then they've been changed for factory parts (good sign) If the belts are aftermarket but aren't worn/loose or tatty you're fine. Check the keys ALL work with the car and that the power windows work along with the boot release. I'd say the only thing after that you can do is ask for documentation. If its good you'll get service history and parts receipts. If the car has done 60K ask if cambelt has been changed and proof if you wish. Check that the car has had regular oil changes (very important) these cars hate you if you dont change the oil regularly and properly. If you spend a LONG time messing around with the car and checking things the salesman/woman will tend to become a bit anxious and they know you're in this for a good car and you know what you're talking about. They're less likely to sell you a bad car if they know you're going to find something/come back in a month fuming wanting to know why X Y and Z has already broken and you should try and get a WARRANTY! Make sure if you get one that they explain to you what is covered and what isn't. Don't feel like an ass asking all the questions you're paying a lot of money for a car and you don't want to get ripped off. It's your own benefit.

Lastly drive the thing. Does it pull the way you expect it to i.e. every gear should have pull (4th and 5th will require some higher revving to get the car to pull, my 1.6 is like that anyway, the 2.0 should have more grunt and more so in the V6). Does the car drive straight when the wheel is centered, drive it up to speed is there any wheel wobble when at cruising speed (gives rise to unbalanced wheels/worse) check there is little play in the steering. I'd check the brakes function correctly too. If the car sways you've got problems. Give it a good going over and you can't do any better.

You cant tell how long a clutch will last just by its age. The driver decides the life of a clutch.

Thats all I can think up of now but I think that is pretty much it. Otherwise good luck is never a miss. Wait for a car to come to you. Don't jump at the first one you see. There is a good car waiting to be sold, patients is a virtue. Keep on autotrader/gumtree and keep checking the newly listed. It took me a whole year of searching to find my car in my price bracket. Was well worth it, has cost me only 120 pounds in a years ownership. Not bad for a 12 year old car I say!
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