Improving Gear Change - Hyundai Coupe 1996 - 1999 (Gen1)

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Hig
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Improving Gear Change - Hyundai Coupe 1996 - 1999 (Gen1)

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Post by Hig » Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:59 am

Improving Gen1 Gear Change

Thanks to Jon (kupsjon) for the DIY. (The under bonnet alterations)
Right then at last I've put together a little description and a few pics of what I did to take up the slack in the gear linkage. This is so simple to do but its amazing how much better it makes the gear change feel. The first pic shows the bad points and the bolts and pin that need to be removed to get the linkage out. In the first pic it shows the washer and dowel/sleeve already fitted.
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First off you need to remove the two bracket bolts and the R pin to make life easier, then you should be able to lift the whole lot away from the gear box with it only being attached to the cable still.
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As you can see in the above pic there is a gap at the side of the rubber grommet and the right hand linkage. These linkages are only supposed to move up and down but as there is a large amount of free play when they move, they also move from side to side. I would say this is one of the reasons why our gearboxes don't locate smoothly as well as the excess slack in the stick. Once you have it like this the left hand part will just slide off leaving you with this.
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For the first bad point it is as easy as putting a washer on the right side of the grommet when you reassemble. Or if you have the same problem as Shaddoh had, where his grommet was split and worn he just removed it and replaced the whole lot with 2 washers. The second bad point seems to vary from year model. We are not sure if this is what Hyundai did when they made the gears a bit better after 2000. The top peg on the left is the part that locates into the gear box main shaft. This peg locates between two lips to move it up and down. However on mine there was a massive amount of difference in the size of the peg and the gap between the lips. Translating to lots of free play in the stick. So all I did was to get a piece of steel bar with an 8mm internal bore and turn it down to the correct size to remove the slack. On Shaddoh's linkages there was a plastic button on the end of this peg so he didn't need to do this part. But if yours hasn't or is worn this will remove a lot of free play and will last a lot longer than the plastic.
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Then all that is left to do is reassemble the linkages back together (not forgetting to add the washer). It's as simple as that, even if you have the plastic button on yours and it is fine, it is still worth doing. As I said Shaddoh had the button on his but he still felt a lot of difference just by putting the washer in there.
After this, we need to look at these parts:
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The main problem is this part: (It is the spring in the square, ignore the arrows, those where for when I was explaining something else to Stewart lol!
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As you can see on the picture, you want that spring to be tight (as it is on the picture) to the two prongs that it touches, most probably if you check yours now you will notice that the spring is wide apart as mine used to be (which is why the stick wobbles), so if you tighten that up that will make the big difference (makes the stick tighter in its movement), as you go to fit the spring though you should have to pull it around the two prongs that are sticking up, you should find this relatively difficult to do:

Finally, the last picture:
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The left arrow shows where to put the washer onto part of the linkage, the right hand arrow shows the tight fit that the spring now is.

Right, so that is my DIY for improving the gear change, I hope that this will help all Gen1 owners.

Some extra bits: (Summarised from fonseca‘s post on rdtiburon)

- Put some heat shrink or insulation tape on the spring where it touches the stick (or use a strong elastic band.)
- At the bottom of the stick, where it connects to the gear linkage, put some tape or heatshrink around here to negate any play there.
- Even if you put the plastic washers on as mentioned above there may still be some play, I advise you get a Coke can (or any other beverage can lol!) and cut some strips out of that as washers, just to remove anymore play, you need to use a can as normal washers are not thin enough.
- Btw, instead of buying white washers from hyundai for the bolt (as mentioned above) apparantly, skateboard bushings will fit in there, so may be a little bit cheaper.
(Nb: I take no responsibility for any broken parts (mainly relates to the spring when you try tightening it up but this applies to other parts aswell.) Doing this shouldn't be a problem, and this DIY is tried and tested on my Gen2.



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